The Russian mountaineer was awarded the prestigious
prize for his solo first-ascent of the north face
of Meru Central Peak (6310m), located in India’s Garwhal.Valery Babanov is this year’s winner of the Piolet d’or 2002. The Russian
mountaineer was awarded the prestigious prize for his solo first-ascent of the
north face of Meru Central Peak (6310m), located in India’s Garwhal. He climbed
the 2000m long route over a five day period from 17-22 September 2001 and
encountered difficulties of up to 5+/6a, A1/A2, M5, 75°. It was Babanov’s second
attempt at the route after a failed attempt in Spring 2001, and also his third
consecutive nomination for the Piolet d’Or.
The 36-year old
mountaineer from Omsk (Siberia) received the award during the International
Ice Fall Meet at Argentière-la-Béssée from Sir Chris Bonington, who presided the
jury this year. Babanov’s ascent was chosen from a select group of six
nominations that, according to the French GHM (Groupe de Haute Montagne) and
Montagnes magazine, best represent the most important alpine achievements of the
year.
The other candidates this year included: Jim Bridwell and
Spencer Pfingsten for the first ascent of ‘The Beast’ on the East Face of Dent
Moose in Alaska, Marko Prezelj and Stephen Koch for the first ascent of ‘Luna’
on the SW Face of Dénali in Alaska, Mauro Bole, Mario Cortese and Fabio Dandri
for the first ascent of « Woman and Chalk » on the East Face of Shipton Spire,
Trango Towers in Pakistan, Patrick Bérhault for his Alpine Traverse and Yuri
Koshelenko who, together with 11 mountaineers, climbed Lhotse central in
Nepal.
Congratulations to Babanov for both the award and his
constancy and determination over these years!
Meru Central Peak, Garwhal Massif, India.
Valery Babanov’s new route climbed solo on the Forth Face
Altitude: 6310m
Route length: 2000m
Grade: ED (5+/6a, A1/A2, M5, 75°)
Duration: 5 days on the face (17-22/09/01)
babanov.com
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